​by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR
 
Italy's lakes near the country's northern border are flanked by the Swiss Alps as a backdrop. This area is not usually part of a first-time trip to Italy, but visitors who enjoyed Rome, Florence or the Amalfi coast often to return to Italy to discover the magic of the lakes.
 
I recently visited Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, which are the most popular for American tourists. Lake Garda, the largest of the lakes, is a popular destination for vacationing Europeans.
 
Lake Maggiore
The second-largest lake in Italy and the largest in southern Switzerland, Lake Maggiore (or Lago Maggiore in Italian) is nestled between the Italian regions of Piedmont (Piemonte) and Lombardy and the Swiss canton of Ticino.
The main town is Stresa, overlooking the Borromean Islands, which are named for the family that acquired them back in the 17th century. The three islands include Isola Bella (Beautiful Island), known for its opulent palace and gardens, Isola Madre (Mother Island) known for its lush vegetation, and Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen's Island) where tradition continues and fishing remains a way of life.

​The waterfront of Stresa is lined with hotels offering beautiful views and easy access to the bus line and ferry service that transport people from village to village up and down the lake. Hotel La Luna nel Porto was fine for our needs, not very expensive, and provided a junior suite with a comfortable king bed and huge balcony overlooking the lake. The kitchenette and living room area are ideal for longer apartment-style stays. Breakfast was included and quite generous in variety and size. Nearby, the Sempione Boutique Hotel also looked inviting with flower-boxed balconies and a rooftop terrace.
 
We connected with Girosole, a company specializing in walking tours throughout Italy, to take us for a hike above the waterline. This allowed us to see a bit of the daily lifestyle with landscaped yards, goats, horses, and undisturbed villages that allow residents to escape the tourist traffic. We started in Levo and took in beautiful views of the Golfo Borromeo and surrounding Alps from above before circling back to Stresa.
 
We stopped for a picnic lunch at the Giardino Botanico Alpinia (Alpine Botanical Garden), with spectacular views of the lake from above and then a stroll through more than 1,000 species of flowers, shrubs and herbs that grow in the Alps.
 
Lake Como
The largest town on Lake Como is called Como and is located at the bottom tip of the lake. It's the closest of this lake's towns to Milan, which is how most people first arrive. Como is big and feels urban, with plenty of great hotels and shops selling silk scarves and ties made in the local mills

For a quieter scene, head to one of the smaller villages north of Como. The upscale town of Bellagio sits at the tip of a peninsula separating the east and west sides of the lake. Bellagio has all the charm you'd expect from this area, with lakefront hotels, shops, restaurants and ferry stops. We stayed at the Hotel Florence, which is reasonably priced and ideally located near restaurants, wine bars and shops. A ferry station is directly across the road and the balcony views of the lake are stunning from sunrise and through the day and night. Other small villages that offering comfortable accommodations are Tremezzo, Varenna and Menaggio. Luxury lakefront villas with private pools are idyllic for larger families and small groups.
 
Our Girosole hiking guide, took us across the lake by ferry from Bellagio to Cadenabbia for a walk through the village of Tremezzo. The highlight of the day was walking up toward the church of San Martino, with an elevation of 475 m (1560 feet) above the village of Griante. The view of the lake was simply spectacular. Taking the ferry back across the lake we explored the town of Varenna. This is a fine place to stay if you like small villages and quiet evenings. From Varenna it's a 20-minute walk to the Fiumelatte, or River of Milk, a waterfall whose waters pour down from its glacial heights in a white cascade. We meandered among aromatic herbs like rosemary that grows as a hedge, flowering thyme along pathways, and wild poppies on the hillsides.

Lake Garda
Garda is the largest among Italy's cluster of lakes, and is often combined with visits to Venice and Verona as part of a longer itinerary, or sometimes a day trip from the train station in the resort town of Peschiera del Garda at the lake's southern tip. It's about an hour and a half to Venice, and just under two hours to Milan.
 
The medieval town of Sirmione, on a peninsula jutting out from the lake's southern coast, is one of the most popular spots on the lake. Here, the Grotto di Catullo is an archeological site featuring the ruins of a Roman villa built between the end of the 1st century BC and the beginning of the 1st century AD.
 
Heading north on the dreamy west coast of the lake you'll find Limone Sul Garda, a popular town known for its lemons and olive oil. At the top of the lake is Riva del Garda, where the winds attract windsurfers and sailors.

Getting Here and Getting Around
If flying into Milan, take the shuttle to Milano Centrale (central train station), and connect on a train to Lake Maggiore, Como or Lago. Remember that there are very few train stops along the lakefront. Once at the lake, the most efficient ways to get around are by bus or ferry. Driving is possible, but the traffic can be terrible and parking spaces may be difficult to find, so use public transportation when possible.
 
Sustainability
Many eco-conscious accommodations, including organic farms (agriturismos), B&Bs and glamping, are available. Book early for peak travel periods. Public transportation is preferred over self-driving because the mountains don't allow for many large roads, and the villages depend on preserving the historic features of the area for tourism. Lake Como has reportedly invested heavily in its electrical network, adding more E-V charging stations.
 
Lake Maggiore and Lake Como have largely done away with single-use plastic, including straws (if you ask for one, it will likely be paper), forks and spoons ("take-away" at restaurants might include wooden utensils if any at all.)
 
Lake life has a comfortable slower feel than the rush to "see it all" in one of Italy's big cities. You can catch the vibe in a couple of days, but this area is best experienced with ample time to relax and take in the natural beauty as well as the foods and wines of this region.
 
Marcia Simon is a Connecticut-based travel writer and owner of Friendly Group Travel. Connect via Facebook or Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or send email to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com.

written and photographed by Marcia Simon, copyright 2023

Getting to Cinque Terre in Northwestern Italy is usually by train from Florence, Genoa or Milan. Once you get there, the best way to see not just the five main villages, but the stunningly beautiful vistas from a totally different perspective, is by walking.
 
A hiking tour of the area generally takes you through the eight-mile trail in Cinque Terre National Park. It doesn't sound like a long hike, but with the villages at sea level and the trails perched above the colorful coastline, the ascending and descending paths, plus numerous stops for photos, lunch, gelato and shopping in the villages, this is best enjoyed as a multi-day experience. Hiking gives you an immersive experience that day trippers from cruise ships and tour buses simply don't get. While village restaurants serve up scrumptious meals with local seafood, lemons, olives and Cinque Terre wines, our hiking tour allowed us to walk through the farms, and taste in the vineyards.
 
Cinque Terre is in the region known as Liguria or the Italian Riviera. This Mediterranean coastline straddles the south of France and Tuscany. The eastern coast of the Ligurian Sea includes Cinque Terre's rugged cliffs, turquoise coves and pastel-colored seaside villages.
 
The "Five Lands"
It's easy to shuttle between Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore using the Cinque Terre Train Pass. A prepay ticket gives you unlimited transport between all five of these villages.

​Monterosso, the largest and northernmost of the Cinque Terre, serves as a good home base. It's the only village with an actual public beach, which is lined with ample waterfront bars and gelato stands.
 
Taking the train from Milan got us in to Monterosso mid-afternoon, so we had time to relax before beginning our official hiking itinerary, arranged with the help of Girosole Italy Walking Tours.
 
Upon arrival we settled in at the Hotel Margherita, where the train station, beach, shops restaurants and hiking trail are all within easy walking distance. We quickly ventured into town for our first Aperol Spritz of the week. Cocktails and aperitivos are generally served with complimentary local olives and other salty snack to offset some alcohol and keep the thirst craving intact.
 
Our hike began along the coast heading south. About three miles later we saw the small harbor of Vernazza, perhaps the most photographed of all the villages. As we continued the walk, the village kept getting closer, and the vista kept changing until we reached the village center. It was an adrenaline rush. Wanting more, we continued on to Corniglia.
 
The Ligurian coastline is vulnerable to the effects of climate change. In recent years, dry periods followed by heavy rain have caused mudslides and temporary trail closures in Cinque Terre National Park while repair work is done. Such was the case on one stretch of trail during our trip between the two southernmost towns Manarola and Riomaggiore. An alternate, longer trail veers away from the coast and up a large hill. Instead, we wanted to see the ocean, so we hopped the train back to Monterosso for our end-of-day Aperol Spritz.

The next day started with a short train ride to Riomaggiore where we were fortunate to see the morning sun illuminating the multicolored hues of the buildings, fishing boats and kayaks in the marina. Standing in the middle of an iconic Cinque Terre photo scene, we did our best to capture our own images. After taking an excessive amount of photos and a leisurely stroll, we took the short train ride (literally 2 minutes) to Manarola and continued our walking journey. This was a highlight of the trip as, along the way while passing through the village border of Volastra, we encountered the Capellini Winery. It's right on the trail, overlooking terraced vineyards. (A few B&Bs are tucked into the countryside here for hikers who want to enjoy a sunset and dinner at Cantina Capellini without having to hike back to town afterward.
 
The sea view was literally awesome as we gradually made our way down to the village of Corniglia and then the 377 steps to the train station. The trail is well marked and protected with rustic railings so it is never scary.

The Foods of Cinque Terre
Brochures describe Cinque Terre as five fishing villages, but some of the locals say the history goes back to farming and creating terraces of level ground for crops and cattle even before the fishermen established their industry.
 
Breakfast is generally always included with a hotel stay, and most often starts with coffee – espresso, cappuccino or Americano. You can expect breads, some type of meat protein, cheeses and a choice of yogurt, fruits and assorted pastries.
 
Anchovies are the local fish, often eaten on salads or pizza, but not salted or cured. Because they are fresh, the flavor is more delicate, especially when lightly fried on a platter shared with local mussels and calamari.

Liguria is the home of pesto. Apparently, pesto was "invented" in a small village outside of Genoa when the monks of a monastery dedicated to St. Basil gathered the aromatic ground cover growing on the hills. This "basil' was pounded by mortar and pestle with other local ingredients including pine nuts from trees that dotted the countryside, cheese from nearby dairy cows and olive oil. Today, Pesto Genovese is a popular pasta dish, particularly using trofie, which is a local twisted pasta cut into little rods.
 
Focaccia and bruschetta are popular as street food or small plates, often with pesto and tomatoes, olive tapenade, little shrimp or freshly caught anchovies. We sampled the local flavors at Beach Bar Stella Marina on Monterosso's waterfront. 
 
Dinner includes local breads and antipasto of local hams and cheese, and of course there's no shortage of pizza or gelato.

When to Go
May has become an incredibly popular month for tourism in Italy. No longer will you beat the crowds if you head over mid-May. If you go in the summer, hiking trails may be overcrowded, and the sun can become intense.
 
We went the first week of May, and it was perfect. Admittedly, luck played a part of that because after we left, the area was hit with three days of heavy rain. But - it's the rain that keeps the lush green mountains producing the crops and creating the jaw-dropping scenery.

Sustainability
As countries and regions across the globe find ways to address climate change, the challenges seem most real in ancient areas where infrastructure may be delicate or protected - and preserving history is a zoning priority over solar panels and other visible technological upgrades.
 
Hotels, for the most part, seem to have adopted the practice of less frequent laundry service. Single-use plastic seems to have vanished. You may not get a straw unless you ask for it, and it will be a paper straw. If you order take-away from a restaurant, you will not get plastic utensils and you will not get Styrofoam. Paper and wood have replaced plastic throughout the area – at least from what I saw.

Cinque Terre Hiking ­– 10 Tips for Planning Your Trip
The Cinque Terre Train Pass allows you to easily find a home base and begin each day in a different spot. With this in mind, here are some tips to help enjoy daily walks in the Cinque Terre:

1. Wear comfortable shoes with a good grip. Trails can be slippery, especially going downhill after a rain.
2. Allow plenty of time. This area is too beautiful to rush through it.
3. Start each day with a fully charged phone if you use your phone to take photos.
4. Get an early start. After 11 am the main trail begins to get crowded, and from May through summer, the sun can be strong and weather hot.
5. Bring water.
6. Bring snacks. Pick up a sandwich at a cafe or salumeria before heading out and take a break for lunch.
7. Don't be fooled by the distances. Because you'll be walking uphill and down, it takes longer than it looks. You'll want to stop frequently to take it all in.
8. Get a Cinque Terre Train Pass. The rail system is intended to shuttle residents and visitors easily and quickly from one village to another. The distances are very short, and this gives you lots of freedom.
9. Travel mid-week in shoulder season to avoid the crowds.
10. Take notes to help remember details of where you've been.

 
Marcia Simon is a Connecticut-based travel writer and owner of Friendly Group Travel. Connect via Facebook or Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or send email to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com.

by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR
 
Amsterdam, the capital city in the Netherlands, is known for its canals, bicycle culture and love for the arts. After all, this is home to Van Gogh, Vermeer and Rembrandt. And Heineken.
 
Amsterdam’s tourist season begins in April when tulips generally reach their peak in Holland, which covers two provinces in the Netherlands. Summers are very busy, and August 2020 will be no exception with Sail Amsterdam, a once-every-five-year event that features tall ships from around the world accompanied by street food and entertainment, and also August’s annual 10-day Grachtenfestival for classical music, jazz, and music from other cultures.

Off-season, on November 2, 2020 to be exact, the annual Amsterdam Museum Night gives you access to museums city-wide that stay open until 2 am. One wristband gets you in to all 50 participating museums. November also brings the Super-Sonic Jazz Festival to the city.

For canal tours, the "best" time is April through October. Summers, of course, are warmest and also the most crowded.
No matter what time of year you go, here are 10 Ways to Feel the Groove of Amsterdam, Holland:

1. Take a canal tour. The guide steers you through the canal ring while explaining parts of the canal’s history dating back to the 17th century when wealthy merchants built mansions along the newly excavated canals. Patrons of the arts commissioned pieces to hang on the walls from local artists of the time, such as Rembrandt van Rijn who later became known simply as Rembrandt. Tours that leave around dusk allow you to see the changing sky and silhouettes of the 17th century canal houses as evening lights appear in the windows and on bridges.
2. Stop in to at least one cheese shop. Amsterdam is known for its Gouda among others. From pesto to truffle, olive to specialty aged Goudas, it’s fun to browse the stores and try the free samples.
3. Coffee cafes are a way of life, so take a break and enjoy some good people-watching while sipping a cup. Most cafes don’t open until 9 am, so if you’re looking for an early morning caffeine jolt, you may be most lucky getting it at your hotel.
4. Anne Frank House – This stark reminder of Nazi history during World War 2 is one of Amsterdam’s most visited museums. See the living quarters where a young girl lived in hiding and wrote her famous diary before her family was arrested and taken to a concentration camp. On my recent trip to the Anne Frank House, visitors were riveted, slowly moving respectfully through the house, seeming to read every word on every placard, trying to comprehend how this atrocious chapter of history could have ever occurred. Photos are not allowed. Tickets are sold only online, beginning two months in advance. If you want to visit the Anne Frank House, you must purchase tickets in advance to assure entry. A limited number of same-day online sales become available at exactly 9 am, but if you are trying to purchase same-day tickets, get on the website before 8:30 am to get into the queue. (As an example, I went online at 8:50 and was #649. It moves fairly quickly once the clock hits 9.) To learn more about Anne Frank and the events that led to persecution of people during Amsterdam’s dark past, guided walking tours of the Jewish Quarter are offered through various tour operators.
5. The Rijksmuseum, considered one of the top museums in the world, houses more than 8,000 masterpieces including Rembrandt’s The Night Watch and Van Gogh’s self-portrait as well as several pieces by Vermeer.
6. The Van Gogh Museum has the world’s largest collection of works by post-impressionist painter Vincent Van Gogh.
7. Visit the Red Light District to understand the history behind Amsterdam’s view of  prostitution. Tours are offered through Red Light Secrets at the affiliated Museum of Prostitution.
8. If you stop into bakeries in and around the Red Light District you may very well find a cannabis section of delectable edibles. The Betty Boop Coffee Shop, located behind Amsterdam’s flower market, is a two-level coffee shop and Internet café with a very interesting display of canna-infused doughnuts, pastries and other snacks to keep you buzzing.
9. Go for a bike ride. Bicycling is a major mode of travel in Amsterdam with world-class bike paths throughout Holland. Riding in the busy city center, although well marked with bike lanes, may be intimidating for some out-of-towners. Easy fix – Get out of town. Many group and self-guided tours take you beyond the city limits. I chose to hop a bus from Centraal Station to Volendam, about 30 minutes north of the city. It’s a 10-minute walk from Volendam’s bus station to the coastal village lined with boats, ice cream shops and tourist attractions as well as Volendam Rent & Event where you can rent a bike for either a couple of hours or a full day to explore the countryside. They gave us a self-guided map with a couple of suggested routes. We followed the loop to the island of Marken, riding the causeway to get there and taking the ferry back after a leisurely lunch. The landscape along the bike path is very flat , follows the water and is away from vehicular traffic so riding is easy at all levels for all ages.

 
Getting to Amsterdam is easy with flights arriving at the city’s Schipol Airport from around the world. A taxi from downtown Amsterdam will cost about 60 euros, while the train from the airport to Centraal Station runs every 10 minutes for 6 euros a ticket. The kiosks to purchase train tickets are located just after you pass the baggage carousels  both inside the baggage claim area and outside once you clear customs. Trains and buses from Amsterdam take you throughout Europe.
 
Marcia Simon, APR, CTA, is a PRSA-accredited public relations practitioner, and an IATA-accredited travel advisor. Connect through facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel, Instagram @friendgrouptravel or welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com.

by Marcia Simon, APR, CTA

Copenhagen is a fabulous walking city.
​Tip #1:
Do NOT walk in the bike lanes.

Unlike the United States, where cyclists are often forced to share roads with motor vehicles and pedestrians, bicycling in Denmark is a serious mode of transportation with designated lanes and traffic lights in urban areas. In Copenhagen, where more than half of all employees bike to work, wandering tourists walking into bike lanes can lead to injury, so pay attention to the bike lanes and stay clear. The train and bus systems make it very easy to get around Copenhagen without a car.
​
​Whatever your mode of transportation, here are 7 things to do in Copenhagen:

1. Across the street from the Central Train Station you’ll find Tivoli Gardens, one of Copenhagen’s most popular tourist attractions. Tivoli is a classic example of an amusement park done well with family activities, rides for all ages, lots of food choices, live entertainment, bright lights at night, and fireworks every Saturday throughout the summer.
2. The big “must do” for first-time visitors to Copenhagen is Nyhavn, the iconic canal strip lined with colorful buildings dating back to 1681, outdoor cafes, houseboats and boat tours. Sit outside and sip coffee or cocktails while watching the everchanging canal scene. Take in the aromas from and indulge in a waffle cone. Early mornings are the best time to take photos free of tourist-filled backgrounds.
3. For those who like to shop, Strøget is one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets lined with designer shops and local brands.
4. Most visitors who take a canal tour start from Nyhavn (there are plenty of boats and it’s a wonderful way to see the popular sights from the water). If you want to experience more off-the-beaten-path parts of the city, try the 2-hour Hidden Gems tour operated by Hey Captain, located just around the corner from Nyhavn in Ofelia Plads at a blue van selling tickets. The tour begins with a complimentary help-yourself beverage from the cooler, in my case a cold Danish Carlsberg pilsner. Our guide/driver Freddie pointed out that Denmark is surrounded by more than 700 little islands. Many of the old retired island ferries have been turned into houseboats and line the canals and coasts of Denmark. Some are dilapidated or have been abandoned by the free spirits and squatters of the ‘60s around Christiania, and others that have been turned into beautiful contemporary Scandinavian-designed homes.
5. Reffen – This street food market is located in a former shipyard. Upon approach, it seems like you’re walking into an industrial area, but when you arrive you’ll be in the center of a millennial hot spot featuring an overabundance of foods from around the world. Choose your food, grab a beverage (alcoholic or non) and then grab a seat by the beach and watch the sun set over the city. To get to Reffen: Walk or take the 9A bus from Central Station, or the 991 or 992 harbor bus. Speaking of buses, you can buy a bus ticket at kiosks around the city or pay with Danish krone. Credit cards are not accepted on buses. (It’s kind of funny that when you walk to or from Reffen you pass by Noma, rated as one of the best restaurants in the world. Reservations at Noma must be made months in advance – online only – and will set you back nearly USD $400 per person, not including alcohol, for a 20-course vegetarian meal in summer; fall brings the game menu; winter is seafood. What they serve is what you get. Period.)
6. Christiania – Visit Copenhagen’s “hippy section,” claimed by squatters in 1971. This free-spirited community has found a way to capitalize on tourism with foods, t-shirts, crafts and hash (yes). If you walk down Pusher Street, do not take photos – and it may be best to visit Pusher Street during daylight hours.
7. Almost across the street from a marked entrance to Christiania is the Church of our Savior, built in 1696. Climb the wooden staircase to the top for a 360° view of Copenhagen and the Øresund Bridge. The last 150 steps are outside the gilded spire for those unafraid of heights. Check for hours because tourist hours stop when church is in service.

 
Leading the Way for Sustainability
Denmark is a world leader in bringing sustainability to life, affirming the importance of the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.
 
Currently, 30 percent of all Denmark’s energy comes from renewable sources, including bioenergy, followed by wind, solar and geothermal energy, according to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Denmark. The country’s public and private sectors are both committed to achieving an energy system without fossil fuels by 2050. The enthusiastic Danish Society of Engineers, IDA, and is ahead of schedule on the project, and has a roadmap to implement the goal of a 100 percent renewable energy system by 2035.
 
Playing On a Heap of Trash
One of the steps towards Copenhagen’s goal of becoming the world’s first carbon neutral capital includes the opening of Amager Bakke, or CopenHill, planned as the new  epicenter for urban mountain sport, offering year-round skiing and snowboarding on artificial snow. It includes the world’s tallest artificial climbing wall, running and hiking trails, and a café – all surrounded by a sprawling recreation area with water sports, soccer fields, and even a go-kart track.
 
The clincher? CopenHill is built on top of the city’s new waste management and energy plant. Amager Bakke is considered the most efficient waste-burning and energy-generating plant in the world, and is expected to power and heat 160,000 households across Copenhagen.
 
Getting Away From the City
As beautiful as Copenhagen is with its waterways and happy vibe, seeing the outlying countryside is part of the Danish experience. Whether you travel by bicycle, car, train or bus, here are 5 day-trips that take you outside Copenhagen’s city center:

1. Head north toward Helsingør (Elsinore). Visit the 15th century Kronborg Castle, the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet. The Shakespeare Festival takes place under the stars here every August. Then stroll the charming streets, enjoy lunch and poke your head into some of the local shops. If you have your passport with you, hop the ferry for the short ride over to Helsingborg, Sweden. The ferry runs every 20 minutes in both directions.
2. Find the Six Forgotten Giants. Made of wood and placed in thoughtfully selected locations outside of metro Copenhagen, these troll-like figures were created by Danish artist Thomas Danbo to get people to explore the land outside of the city.
3. Camp Adventure and Forest Tower, about one hour outside the city, has the largest rope course and longest zip lines in Denmark. An aerial boardwalk gently spirals into an observation tower that offers spectacular views beyond the forest to the city of Copenhagen and beyond to Sweden.
4. The Viking Ship Museum is the only place in the world where you can sail on an actual Viking boat (Sailing season runs May through September.) It's located in the historic city of Roskilde, just 30 minutes west of the city by train. (Also in Roskilde – the Roskilde Festival, one of Europe’s biggest music festivals every July.)
5. Visit the island of Funen (Fyn), about two-hours from Copenhagen (and in the middle of Denmark.) The hub city Odense is home to Hans Christian Andersen who wrote The Ugly Duckling, The Princess and the Pea and other well-known fairy tales. Funen, called a magical island, is filled with old homes and adorable villages. Funen is underway with plans to be the friendliest bicycling island in the world.

Before you even set foot on Danish soil at Kastrup International Airport, especially if you’re flying in from the US and sitting on the left side of the plane, you may get a great view of the world-famous Øresund Bridge, which connects Denmark’s capital city to Sweden’s city of Malmö. This seven-mile crossing is half bridge (on the Sweden side) that seems to vanish into the sea as it approaches a man-made island and then burrows below the surface into a 2.5-mile tunnel to Copenhagen. It’s pretty awesome.

​Marcia Simon, APR, CTA, is a PRSA-accredited public relations practitioner, and an IATA-accredited travel advisor at FriendlyGroupTravel.com. Connect through facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel, Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com

by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR
The most popular time to visit Stockholm, Sweden’s capital and most populous city, is summer, with warm days, bustling outdoor cafes and extended hours of daylight to explore the city’s archipelago and canals by foot or by sea. After all, Stockholm is built on 14 beautiful islands connected by 57 bridges.
 
But, as fate would have it, I had family business that called me over in mid-January. I didn’t mind; airfares and hotel rates are lower in winter, and having been to Stockholm about 30 times in my life, I was happy to approach this trip as a journey into winter life in the city.
 
This time I opted not to stay in the tourist area of Gamla Stan (“Old Town” with cobblestone walking streets and preserved medieval architecture), near Djurgården (the island in the southern part of Östermalm that’s home to the famous Vasa Viking ship museum, Skansen outdoor living museum of traditional life, Gröna Lund amusement park and the Abba Museum), hip Södermalm with its artsy vibe and eclectic eateries, or near the ferry terminals that take passengers to the archipelago and numerous water tours of the city.
​
Instead, we stayed in Norrmalm, a 20-minute walk north of the city’s Central Train station, passing by Sorgel Torg, the heart of this busy shopping and working district. Norrmalm is also a cultural hub, with ballet and opera at the Royal Swedish Opera, as well as art exhibits and modern dance at Kulturhuset Stadsteatern. Drottninggatan is a vehicle-prohibited shopping street filled with outdoor cafes and fun places to get a sense of current Swedish design and fashion. It begins close to the Royal Palace where you’ll see shops selling all the expected souvenirs, from t-shirts and Viking horn hats to Swedish crystal and H&M department store bargains. The farther north you walk, the more this becomes part of the local community. We also walked around Vasastan, a neighborhood near Stockholm’s prestigious KTH (Royal Institute of Technology), which was part of my reason for visiting over the winter.
 
In winter, in Norrmalm, you feel less like a tourist and more immersed in daily culture of Swedish life. Here are my observations, some pertinent year-round and some most noticeable in winter:

1. Everyone, it seems, speaks English. In fact, it’s easier for a Swede to speak to you in English than to struggle with any attempts you make to communicate in their language.
2. Most restaurants, cafes and stores will not take cash. And the bus and metro systems are cash-free, too. Sweden is becoming a cashless society, so don’t bother changing your US dollars into Swedish currency (kronor). It’s not necessary.
3. No one seems to mind the cold weather. People sit outside at adorable café tables and sip coffee with a friend, or enjoy a beer and a cigarette – even when it’s 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 Celsius).
4. Bicycles are popular for commuting, even on icy roads. Never walk in a bike path. You can get badly injured if slammed by a rapidly-moving bicycle. (Bicyclists stay on bike paths so respect their space). In Sweden, cyclists and pedestrians do not share space. They each have their own lane.
5. If you order salmon on a salad, it’s likely to be raw or marinated. It will surely not be broiled or grilled.
6. In winter, the sun rises late and sets early. Our mid-January trip saw beautiful sunrise at 7:45 and dusk by 3:15.
7. Americans have “happy hour.” Swedes have “after work.” When work ends and it’s dark outside, many young people like to meet friends before heading home. Eating out can become expensive, so “after work” is more about having a drink, usually a beer, more than a bite, before going home and making dinner. My travel companion and I stumbled upon Lådan, a very popular and casual “after work” spot for all ages, but mainly drawing a younger crowd. With 17 beers on tap, all Swedish, and long tables plus a mixed assortment of seating and standing tables, you can order a variety of sliders and snacks from the counter. If there’s no table space, just grab a tray and balance it on your lap wherever you find a place to sit. I wish we had a place like this at home. Check out their food porn on Instagram @ladan. A little more upscale is Urban Deli on Sveavägen, where you can pick up cheeses, breads, bottled craft beers and various gourmet items to go, or step into the rear dining area for a cocktail or glass of wine with a small bite or full meal. It’s a very hip location, attached to equally cool Hotel With, self-described as a “lean luxury” hotel. Urban Deli as other locations throughout the city, albeit without the market, but equally on-trend.
8. Christmas (Jul) lights are beautiful in the city. Apartment and office windows are adorned with electric candelabras and seven-pointed stars. No one seems to be in a hurry to take them down since they are very uplifting during the season of short days and long nights. Along the streets, strings of white lights, sparkling stars and shiny orbs hang from bridges and overpasses and across intersections.
9. You can always stop for Fika, which is basically coffee and a pastry, most traditionally a cinnamon bun. Especially in winter, it’s great to step inside, warm up and sit back for a bit because Fika isn’t just about food. It’s a state of mind, an attitude and an important part of Swedish culture. It’s taking a chill break, whether a planned quick meeting to catch up with a friend or a spontaneous stop along an unplanned journey.
10. People seem to accept, rather than fight, the colder, darker days of winter. Acceptance appears to make people happy here.

 
If it had been summer, and the days were long and warm we’d be more apt to see families and lots of children out on the streets. With school in session and the setting sun closing in on daylight by mid-afternoon, it was a different vibe to see commuters – well-dressed men with their stylish hair and manbags, women bicycling in leggings and skirts, and shiny white lights in every direction. Most people would enjoy Stockholm more in spring, summer or fall. However, stretching a necessary family trip with a quick immersion dump into Stockholm’s winter culture gave us a fun new insight into the winter scene in one of Scandinavia’s most beloved cities.
 
Marcia Simon, APR, CTA is principal of friendlygrouptravel.com and MSE Public Relations. She’s also a writer with special interest in travel, health and wellness. Connect at marcia@mseusa.com, facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel @marciasimon on Twitter or friendlygrouptravel on Instagram.
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​by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR
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A visit to Barcelona will likely include a stroll down Les Rambles (La Rambla), the main walking street lined with shops and restaurants filling tourists with paella, tapas, big mugs of local beer and sangria, and some really odd flavors of gelato. Other than to say, “been there, done that,” if you miss La Rambla, you can still have an excellent time in Barcelona.
 
Explore the city and its outskirts. Plaça de Catalunya (Catalonia Square) is where you’ll find Tourist Information. This square is known as the “belly button” of Barcelona, the center of visitor activities, tours and excursions. It also serves as a boundary point for the different neighborhoods that reach out in different directions from this core. Under the plaza is the large mass transit metro complex.

10 Great Things to Do in Barcelona

1. Visit Park Güell, a Unesco World Heritage Site designed by Architect Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi originally envisioned this 50-acre park as a “neighborhood” for his relatives and friends, but that plan never developed. Entrance to the park is free, but admission to the Gaudi House Museum and the very popular Monumental Core, where you’ll see much of Gaudi’s mosaic sculpture and design, requires a fee – and  advance purchase if you want to be assured entry into the Monumental Core. Gaudi was known for his mosaic designs and for being a little bit of a “weirdo.” He was born in Barcelona in 1852, and lived and worked in the city his whole life. Musicians are seated throughout the park, and the Spanish music drifts through the air as you meander.
2. Visit one of Barcelona’s Antoni Gaudi buildings, the most famous of which is the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia. You can see Gaudi’s whimsical modernist touches on the exterior for free. Tickets get you inside this cathedral, which is nothing like you’d expect. Advance purchase is recommended to avoid wait lines. Two other Gaudi structures in the city are the Bottló house and La Pedrera, where some nights throughout the summer you can head rooftop to enjoy jazz and a cocktail.
3. Browse La Boquería, the market, tucked away behind La Rambla, for some authentic street food. See where the locals come for fresh fish and vegetables, spices and freshly squeezed fruit drinks, nuts, chocolates, breads and of course jamón, Iberian ham. If you’re lucky, you might find a spot to sit at one of the bars. La Boquería offers Catalan cooking classes, food tours of the market, and an adjacent seafood restaurant for the freshest catch of the day..
4. Take a day trip to Montserrat, which means “serrated mountain.” The monastery is home to about 150 Benedictine monks, who you will only see if you visit in the evening with a chance to listen to the choir. Almost 1,000 years of history, jaw-dropping views and a sense of calm provide respite after a few busy days in the city. Monserrat about an hour northwest of Barcelona. Drive yourself or join a small group tour. Most half-day tours combine other activities such as a stop for tapas and cava (sparkling regional wine) or a traditional wine tasting. One full-day tour that includes more free time to explore at Montserrat is from Castlexperience, which includes wine tasting at Oller del Mas vineyards, one of the southernmost vineyards in the Pla de Bages wine region and an authentic Catalunyan meal at the vineyard’s casual restaurant. Depending on how much time you have at Montserrat, you can ride the funicular up the mountain where you’ll find several walking paths, hike or ride your way back down, visit the cathedral and listen to the stunning Montserrat boys choir (they sing two songs at 1 pm for the public) and taste (and purchase) liquor made by the monks.
5. Head north up the coast to Girona in the Costa Brava’s rugged coastline and  visit Figueres, home to Salvador Dalí and the Dalí Teatre & Museo (Dali Theater and Museum.) This is a popular packaged trip.
6. Eat someplace other than La Rambla. It’s fun to sit at one of the al fresco restaurants on La Rambla for some top-notch people watching as you sip a large drink and sample some tourist tapas and paella, but make sure to get off the beaten path for a more authentic taste of Barcelona. The city is filled with restaurants; ask around for local recommendations.
7. Listen to Spanish guitar music. Touristy flamenco shows are readily advertised. To find something more authentic, look into a concert at the Palau de la Música where shows are not limited to guitar and flamenco, and tend toward classical. Helpful websites to find small concerts are spanishguitarbarcelona.es and /www.maestrosdelaguitarra.com. Remember that Barcelona is not where flamenco was born. This style of music and dance originated in Andalusia. You’ll find an entertaining show in Barcelona, but it will be commercialized.
8. Explore the Museo Nacional D’art de Catalunya (National Art Museum) to see  a thousand years of Catalan art, from the 10th to the 20th centuries.
9. Walk, or take the metro, to Estadi Olimpic (Olympic Stadium), right across from the National Art Museum. Home to the 1992 Summer Olympics, the stadium  and surrounding space is now used for concerts, sporting events, and a municipal swimming pool. Concerts for 2018-2019 include Ringo Starr, Katy Perry, Shakira, Pearl Jam, Shawn Mendez, lots of Spanish performers, plus Cirque du Soleil and Disney on Ice.
10. Explore the city by a self-guided walking tour (maps are available in hotels) or by hop-on bus, or small-group tours via bike, e-bike, or Segway. To see more geography or surrounding areas, ride the metro.

Marcia Simon, CTA, APR, is a writer, travel agent and public relations professional specializing in travel traveltech, health and wellness. Founder of friendlygrouptravel.com, you can reach Marcia at welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com.