by Marcia Simon

The travel radar screen has discovered Norway, which is becoming a "go to" destination. And for good reason.
 
With jaw-dropping beauty, pristine landscapes, cooler climate, and sustainability efforts that show a commitment to preserve it all, the natural beauty of Norway is still largely undiscovered by travelers beyond Europe. With the Northern Lights in winter and Midnight Sun in summer, this is where outdoor enthusiasts can experience some of nature's most precious gifts.

Norway is large, flanked by Sweden to the right and the Atlantic Ocean to the left. About 75 percent of Norway is mountainous. The Scandinavian Mountains, also known as the Scandes, run north to south. The terrain prohibits train routes to many places in the north where population is largely along the coast. The small villages are charming; the people who live here year-round are hearty. The government led the way for two companies running Norway's ships that deliver mail and local passengers along the coast to welcome tourists onboard with a unique experience into Scandinavian culture, local cuisine and private cabins.
 
For the most part, vacationers find it most practical to stay in the southern half of Norway, with its magnificent fjords, airports and public transportation system. A fjord is a long, deep, narrow body of water that begins at the ocean and reaches far inland. The distinct glacier-formed fjords are framed by steep mountains or rock on either side. Fjords are only found in a handful of places on Earth. Norway's Geirangerfjord is considered perhaps the most beautiful and famous in the world.
 
A trip to Norway isn't complete without a trip up one of the fjords - either a day excursion, an overnight ship or a leisurely ferry. It depends on your frame of mind and pace of travel. The city of Bergen is known as the country's Fjord Capital.

One relatively easy way to see the fjords and popular destinations, or "Norway's Greatest Hits" as one might say, is marketed as Norway in a Nutshell, which combines train, boat and bus to travel between Norway's capital Oslo, and Bergen, situated between the two largest fjords in Norway, which may be why it's known as the country's  fjord capital. The journey takes you through beautiful fjords and up to an elevation where you're likely to see snow in late-spring and sometimes through the summer.
 
It's possible to speed through a Norway in a Nutshell itinerary in a day if you simply want a scenic ride from point to point. Or you can take a week or more to stop along the way to spend a few nights at one of the lovely fjord-facing hotels or campgrounds along the route. Camping in Norway often means staying in a basic cabin, sometimes with a small kitchen and private bathroom. These cabins are very popular with European travelers; advance booking is highly recommended.

I opted for a 3-night getaway as part of a larger trip in Scandinavia. Here's how it went:
 
Flights from Copenhagen in Denmark to Bergen in Norway are short and inexpensive on EasyJet and SAS airlines. Upon arrival we took a train from the airport to Bergen's Central Station and walked the short distance to Bryggen or "The Wharf."

Choosing the centuries-old Det Hanseatiske hotel gave us a glimpse into Bryggen's history and involvement in the Hanseatic League, which was a maritime merchant trade group of European countries in the 13th to 15th centuries. Bryggen's harbor, now known as the Old Town, offers an easy stroll along the shop-lined waterfront. Visitors can enjoy a fish sandwich from Fisktorget, or fish market. After lunch we walked around town and picked up four types of freshly smoked fish, a crusty loaf of bread, local cheese, beers and a few bottles of delicious Sammy Smith pear cider for an outdoor picnic dinner.

There are several hiking trails suitable for various levels of difficulty when you get to the top of Floyen. We opted for one that would bring us back down to sea level in a leisurely three hours. We got back in plenty of time to enjoy a simple dinner of burgers and salads.

The next day started with an early walk over to Bergen's central station to begin our Norway in a Nutshell experience with a train ride to Voss. You notice lots of people traveling the same journey and realize that this trip has a degree of tourist commercialism. And yet, the scenery is spectacular from the big windows on the train and then on the bus that drops you at the beautiful fjord-facing town of Gudvangen with two tourist cafeterias, picnic tables and a gift shop. With a two-hour wait for the boat, you're bound to buy something.
 
The boat ride to Flåm was gorgeous. This village is another perfect spot for staying a few extra days. You have a choice of restaurants, a craft beer brewery, a food truck area, and a limited number of hotels by the water, including Flamsbrygga and Fretheim. There's also a campground with tent, cabin and RV options. Early reservations for any type of accommodation are strongly recommended for peak season. For those who can't find a place to stay in Flåm, nearby Aurland is also beautiful. This area is incredible for photography, hiking, kayaking and rib boats.

The Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana) is right in the heart of Flåm Village and takes you to the next stop – Myrdal. The train stops on the way at a magnificent waterfall, one of many that become part of the fjord experience.

Another adventure option is to take the train to Myrdal and then rent a bike for a one-way ride down the gentle descent traversing numerous bends on the designated bike and pedestrian path to Flåm. The train passes through the nearby remote town of Finse, with a population of less than 100 people, which was chosen for the opening scene for the movie Star Wars: The Emperor Strikes Back.
 
Our Nutshell experience ended by train in Norway's capital city of Oslo. Had there been more time (Is there ever enough time?) we could have stayed for a night. (During a previous trip I visited the Vigeland Sculpture Park, which is a must-do. Oslo is a great city for foodies in search of Norwegian cuisine. We had a plane to catch so took a connecting train directly to the airport and headed back to Denmark. While these two countries are both part of Scandinavia with similar cultures and a deep commitment toward sustainability and environmental protection, they also have very different vibes. In Denmark everything seems close and connected. Norway is vast and expansive. It's rugged in a civilized sort of way.
 
Marcia Simon is a travel writer and owner of Friendly Group Travel. Connect through facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel, Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or [email protected].

PHOTO CREDIT: MARCIA SIMON  ©2024

by Marcia Simon
all photos by Marcia Simon ©2024

​To experience Denmark's nature and culture outside Copenhagen's city limits, take a few days to meander around the country roads, castles, archipelago and bike paths on the island of Fyn (aka Funen in English.)
 
Most tourists in Denmark don't make it past Copenhagen's city borders, and that's okay for a short trip because there are plenty of eye-opening adventures within the city. But, because Copenhagen's intriguing vibe puts it on the list of destinations threatened by overtourism*, getting out of town for a few days gives you a better overall perspective of the country's true landscape and culture.
 
There are plenty of options for a day or weekend trip to get away from the peak-season city crowds. Fyn is one of those options, and less than two hours by train or car from Copenhagen. Fyn is the island in the middle of Denmark, between the two main land masses of Zealand (the region that includes capital city Copenhagen to the east) and Jutland (to the west where you'll find the cities of Aarhus, Aalborg and the country's west coast sandy beaches.)
 
Denmark's well-connected system of trains and buses makes it quite easy to hop a ride from Copenhagen's Central Station to Odense, the anchor spot in the middle of Fyn (pronounced "foon" in Danish.) Odense, best known as the birthplace of fairytale author Hans Christian Andersen, is the largest city on the island and the third largest city in Denmark. Depending on your travel preferences, you might anchor in Odense with an ample variety of hotels and restaurants in the city or Old Town, and day trips and tours to see the highlights of Fyn.
 
Or... continue by train or bus, or rent a car or a bicycle, to explore the island on a deeper level, which is what I did on a recent trip. We rented a car in Odense and headed south, taking backroads for a stop at Egeskov Slot (Slot means Castle in Danish.)

​Built as a village manor house in the 1400s, Egeskov was transformed into a highly fortified fortress, commissioned by local landowner Frands Brockenhuus. The work was completed in 1554, and today Egeskov is considered one of the best-preserved moated Renaissance castles in Northern Europe. Brockenhuus was among the King’s inner circle of trusted advisors and one of the "most cultured" men of his time. He climbed the ranks to become commander of the Danish army. He died in battle during the Seven-Year War with Sweden.
 
Heading farther south, the two main ports with ferries to the outer islands at the southern tip of Fyn are Faaborg and Svendborg. We opted for Svendborg and stayed at the hotelaeroe.dk/en/Hotel Ærø.

​The location is ideal for a short walk to the ferry dock to visit the smaller island of Ærø, and to a fun outdoor dining area where you can enjoy a local craft beer or cocktail with a light bite while you watch the boats and slow island life at the water's edge.
 
The island of Aero has two places within a 10-minute walk of the ferry dock where you can rent bikes for a full day. A "regular" seven-speed bike is 100 DKK (about USD $15) or 250 DKK (USD $36) for an e-bike. We rode at a leisurely pace along the beach and rolling meadows, stopping often to take photos, pop into a distillery and enjoy a casual lunch. It was a delightful day, ending with a relaxed dinner at a cute Italian restaurant near our hotel back in Svendborg.
 
Heading back to Copenhagen, we stopped at three castles before leaving Fyn. One, Broholm Castle, is now a hotel and restaurant. 

by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR
The most popular time to visit Stockholm, Sweden’s capital and most populous city, is summer, with warm days, bustling outdoor cafes and extended hours of daylight to explore the city’s archipelago and canals by foot or by sea. After all, Stockholm is built on 14 beautiful islands connected by 57 bridges.
 
But, as fate would have it, I had family business that called me over in mid-January. I didn’t mind; airfares and hotel rates are lower in winter, and having been to Stockholm about 30 times in my life, I was happy to approach this trip as a journey into winter life in the city.
 
This time I opted not to stay in the tourist area of Gamla Stan (“Old Town” with cobblestone walking streets and preserved medieval architecture), near Djurgården (the island in the southern part of Östermalm that’s home to the famous Vasa Viking ship museum, Skansen outdoor living museum of traditional life, Gröna Lund amusement park and the Abba Museum), hip Södermalm with its artsy vibe and eclectic eateries, or near the ferry terminals that take passengers to the archipelago and numerous water tours of the city.
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Instead, we stayed in Norrmalm, a 20-minute walk north of the city’s Central Train station, passing by Sorgel Torg, the heart of this busy shopping and working district. Norrmalm is also a cultural hub, with ballet and opera at the Royal Swedish Opera, as well as art exhibits and modern dance at Kulturhuset Stadsteatern. Drottninggatan is a vehicle-prohibited shopping street filled with outdoor cafes and fun places to get a sense of current Swedish design and fashion. It begins close to the Royal Palace where you’ll see shops selling all the expected souvenirs, from t-shirts and Viking horn hats to Swedish crystal and H&M department store bargains. The farther north you walk, the more this becomes part of the local community. We also walked around Vasastan, a neighborhood near Stockholm’s prestigious KTH (Royal Institute of Technology), which was part of my reason for visiting over the winter.
 
In winter, in Norrmalm, you feel less like a tourist and more immersed in daily culture of Swedish life. Here are my observations, some pertinent year-round and some most noticeable in winter:

1. Everyone, it seems, speaks English. In fact, it’s easier for a Swede to speak to you in English than to struggle with any attempts you make to communicate in their language.
2. Most restaurants, cafes and stores will not take cash. And the bus and metro systems are cash-free, too. Sweden is becoming a cashless society, so don’t bother changing your US dollars into Swedish currency (kronor). It’s not necessary.
3. No one seems to mind the cold weather. People sit outside at adorable café tables and sip coffee with a friend, or enjoy a beer and a cigarette – even when it’s 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 Celsius).
4. Bicycles are popular for commuting, even on icy roads. Never walk in a bike path. You can get badly injured if slammed by a rapidly-moving bicycle. (Bicyclists stay on bike paths so respect their space). In Sweden, cyclists and pedestrians do not share space. They each have their own lane.
5. If you order salmon on a salad, it’s likely to be raw or marinated. It will surely not be broiled or grilled.
6. In winter, the sun rises late and sets early. Our mid-January trip saw beautiful sunrise at 7:45 and dusk by 3:15.
7. Americans have “happy hour.” Swedes have “after work.” When work ends and it’s dark outside, many young people like to meet friends before heading home. Eating out can become expensive, so “after work” is more about having a drink, usually a beer, more than a bite, before going home and making dinner. My travel companion and I stumbled upon Lådan, a very popular and casual “after work” spot for all ages, but mainly drawing a younger crowd. With 17 beers on tap, all Swedish, and long tables plus a mixed assortment of seating and standing tables, you can order a variety of sliders and snacks from the counter. If there’s no table space, just grab a tray and balance it on your lap wherever you find a place to sit. I wish we had a place like this at home. Check out their food porn on Instagram @ladan. A little more upscale is Urban Deli on Sveavägen, where you can pick up cheeses, breads, bottled craft beers and various gourmet items to go, or step into the rear dining area for a cocktail or glass of wine with a small bite or full meal. It’s a very hip location, attached to equally cool Hotel With, self-described as a “lean luxury” hotel. Urban Deli as other locations throughout the city, albeit without the market, but equally on-trend.
8. Christmas (Jul) lights are beautiful in the city. Apartment and office windows are adorned with electric candelabras and seven-pointed stars. No one seems to be in a hurry to take them down since they are very uplifting during the season of short days and long nights. Along the streets, strings of white lights, sparkling stars and shiny orbs hang from bridges and overpasses and across intersections.
9. You can always stop for Fika, which is basically coffee and a pastry, most traditionally a cinnamon bun. Especially in winter, it’s great to step inside, warm up and sit back for a bit because Fika isn’t just about food. It’s a state of mind, an attitude and an important part of Swedish culture. It’s taking a chill break, whether a planned quick meeting to catch up with a friend or a spontaneous stop along an unplanned journey.
10. People seem to accept, rather than fight, the colder, darker days of winter. Acceptance appears to make people happy here.

 
If it had been summer, and the days were long and warm we’d be more apt to see families and lots of children out on the streets. With school in session and the setting sun closing in on daylight by mid-afternoon, it was a different vibe to see commuters – well-dressed men with their stylish hair and manbags, women bicycling in leggings and skirts, and shiny white lights in every direction. Most people would enjoy Stockholm more in spring, summer or fall. However, stretching a necessary family trip with a quick immersion dump into Stockholm’s winter culture gave us a fun new insight into the winter scene in one of Scandinavia’s most beloved cities.
 
Marcia Simon, APR, CTA is principal of friendlygrouptravel.com and MSE Public Relations. She’s also a writer with special interest in travel, health and wellness. Connect at [email protected], facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel @marciasimon on Twitter or friendlygrouptravel on Instagram.
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