![]() by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR Italy's lakes near the country's northern border are flanked by the Swiss Alps as a backdrop. This area is not usually part of a first-time trip to Italy, but visitors who enjoyed Rome, Florence or the Amalfi coast often to return to Italy to discover the magic of the lakes. I recently visited Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, which are the most popular for American tourists. Lake Garda, the largest of the lakes, is a popular destination for vacationing Europeans. Lake Maggiore The second-largest lake in Italy and the largest in southern Switzerland, Lake Maggiore (or Lago Maggiore in Italian) is nestled between the Italian regions of Piedmont (Piemonte) and Lombardy and the Swiss canton of Ticino. The main town is Stresa, overlooking the Borromean Islands, which are named for the family that acquired them back in the 17th century. The three islands include Isola Bella (Beautiful Island), known for its opulent palace and gardens, Isola Madre (Mother Island) known for its lush vegetation, and Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen's Island) where tradition continues and fishing remains a way of life. The waterfront of Stresa is lined with hotels offering beautiful views and easy access to the bus line and ferry service that transport people from village to village up and down the lake. Hotel La Luna nel Porto was fine for our needs, not very expensive, and provided a junior suite with a comfortable king bed and huge balcony overlooking the lake. The kitchenette and living room area are ideal for longer apartment-style stays. Breakfast was included and quite generous in variety and size. Nearby, the Sempione Boutique Hotel also looked inviting with flower-boxed balconies and a rooftop terrace. We connected with Girosole, a company specializing in walking tours throughout Italy, to take us for a hike above the waterline. This allowed us to see a bit of the daily lifestyle with landscaped yards, goats, horses, and undisturbed villages that allow residents to escape the tourist traffic. We started in Levo and took in beautiful views of the Golfo Borromeo and surrounding Alps from above before circling back to Stresa. We stopped for a picnic lunch at the Giardino Botanico Alpinia (Alpine Botanical Garden), with spectacular views of the lake from above and then a stroll through more than 1,000 species of flowers, shrubs and herbs that grow in the Alps. Lake Como The largest town on Lake Como is called Como and is located at the bottom tip of the lake. It's the closest of this lake's towns to Milan, which is how most people first arrive. Como is big and feels urban, with plenty of great hotels and shops selling silk scarves and ties made in the local mills For a quieter scene, head to one of the smaller villages north of Como. The upscale town of Bellagio sits at the tip of a peninsula separating the east and west sides of the lake. Bellagio has all the charm you'd expect from this area, with lakefront hotels, shops, restaurants and ferry stops. We stayed at the Hotel Florence, which is reasonably priced and ideally located near restaurants, wine bars and shops. A ferry station is directly across the road and the balcony views of the lake are stunning from sunrise and through the day and night. Other small villages that offering comfortable accommodations are Tremezzo, Varenna and Menaggio. Luxury lakefront villas with private pools are idyllic for larger families and small groups. Our Girosole hiking guide, took us across the lake by ferry from Bellagio to Cadenabbia for a walk through the village of Tremezzo. The highlight of the day was walking up toward the church of San Martino, with an elevation of 475 m (1560 feet) above the village of Griante. The view of the lake was simply spectacular. Taking the ferry back across the lake we explored the town of Varenna. This is a fine place to stay if you like small villages and quiet evenings. From Varenna it's a 20-minute walk to the Fiumelatte, or River of Milk, a waterfall whose waters pour down from its glacial heights in a white cascade. We meandered among aromatic herbs like rosemary that grows as a hedge, flowering thyme along pathways, and wild poppies on the hillsides. Lake Garda
Garda is the largest among Italy's cluster of lakes, and is often combined with visits to Venice and Verona as part of a longer itinerary, or sometimes a day trip from the train station in the resort town of Peschiera del Garda at the lake's southern tip. It's about an hour and a half to Venice, and just under two hours to Milan. The medieval town of Sirmione, on a peninsula jutting out from the lake's southern coast, is one of the most popular spots on the lake. Here, the Grotto di Catullo is an archeological site featuring the ruins of a Roman villa built between the end of the 1st century BC and the beginning of the 1st century AD. Heading north on the dreamy west coast of the lake you'll find Limone Sul Garda, a popular town known for its lemons and olive oil. At the top of the lake is Riva del Garda, where the winds attract windsurfers and sailors. Getting Here and Getting Around If flying into Milan, take the shuttle to Milano Centrale (central train station), and connect on a train to Lake Maggiore, Como or Lago. Remember that there are very few train stops along the lakefront. Once at the lake, the most efficient ways to get around are by bus or ferry. Driving is possible, but the traffic can be terrible and parking spaces may be difficult to find, so use public transportation when possible. Sustainability Many eco-conscious accommodations, including organic farms (agriturismos), B&Bs and glamping, are available. Book early for peak travel periods. Public transportation is preferred over self-driving because the mountains don't allow for many large roads, and the villages depend on preserving the historic features of the area for tourism. Lake Como has reportedly invested heavily in its electrical network, adding more E-V charging stations. Lake Maggiore and Lake Como have largely done away with single-use plastic, including straws (if you ask for one, it will likely be paper), forks and spoons ("take-away" at restaurants might include wooden utensils if any at all.) Lake life has a comfortable slower feel than the rush to "see it all" in one of Italy's big cities. You can catch the vibe in a couple of days, but this area is best experienced with ample time to relax and take in the natural beauty as well as the foods and wines of this region. Marcia Simon is a Connecticut-based travel writer and owner of Friendly Group Travel. Connect via Facebook or Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or send email to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com.
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written and photographed by Marcia Simon, copyright 2023 Getting to Cinque Terre in Northwestern Italy is usually by train from Florence, Genoa or Milan. Once you get there, the best way to see not just the five main villages, but the stunningly beautiful vistas from a totally different perspective, is by walking. A hiking tour of the area generally takes you through the eight-mile trail in Cinque Terre National Park. It doesn't sound like a long hike, but with the villages at sea level and the trails perched above the colorful coastline, the ascending and descending paths, plus numerous stops for photos, lunch, gelato and shopping in the villages, this is best enjoyed as a multi-day experience. Hiking gives you an immersive experience that day trippers from cruise ships and tour buses simply don't get. While village restaurants serve up scrumptious meals with local seafood, lemons, olives and Cinque Terre wines, our hiking tour allowed us to walk through the farms, and taste in the vineyards. Cinque Terre is in the region known as Liguria or the Italian Riviera. This Mediterranean coastline straddles the south of France and Tuscany. The eastern coast of the Ligurian Sea includes Cinque Terre's rugged cliffs, turquoise coves and pastel-colored seaside villages. The "Five Lands" It's easy to shuttle between Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore using the Cinque Terre Train Pass. A prepay ticket gives you unlimited transport between all five of these villages. ![]() Monterosso, the largest and northernmost of the Cinque Terre, serves as a good home base. It's the only village with an actual public beach, which is lined with ample waterfront bars and gelato stands. Taking the train from Milan got us in to Monterosso mid-afternoon, so we had time to relax before beginning our official hiking itinerary, arranged with the help of Girosole Italy Walking Tours. Upon arrival we settled in at the Hotel Margherita, where the train station, beach, shops restaurants and hiking trail are all within easy walking distance. We quickly ventured into town for our first Aperol Spritz of the week. Cocktails and aperitivos are generally served with complimentary local olives and other salty snack to offset some alcohol and keep the thirst craving intact. Our hike began along the coast heading south. About three miles later we saw the small harbor of Vernazza, perhaps the most photographed of all the villages. As we continued the walk, the village kept getting closer, and the vista kept changing until we reached the village center. It was an adrenaline rush. Wanting more, we continued on to Corniglia. The Ligurian coastline is vulnerable to the effects of climate change. In recent years, dry periods followed by heavy rain have caused mudslides and temporary trail closures in Cinque Terre National Park while repair work is done. Such was the case on one stretch of trail during our trip between the two southernmost towns Manarola and Riomaggiore. An alternate, longer trail veers away from the coast and up a large hill. Instead, we wanted to see the ocean, so we hopped the train back to Monterosso for our end-of-day Aperol Spritz. ![]() The next day started with a short train ride to Riomaggiore where we were fortunate to see the morning sun illuminating the multicolored hues of the buildings, fishing boats and kayaks in the marina. Standing in the middle of an iconic Cinque Terre photo scene, we did our best to capture our own images. After taking an excessive amount of photos and a leisurely stroll, we took the short train ride (literally 2 minutes) to Manarola and continued our walking journey. This was a highlight of the trip as, along the way while passing through the village border of Volastra, we encountered the Capellini Winery. It's right on the trail, overlooking terraced vineyards. (A few B&Bs are tucked into the countryside here for hikers who want to enjoy a sunset and dinner at Cantina Capellini without having to hike back to town afterward. The sea view was literally awesome as we gradually made our way down to the village of Corniglia and then the 377 steps to the train station. The trail is well marked and protected with rustic railings so it is never scary. ![]() The Foods of Cinque Terre Brochures describe Cinque Terre as five fishing villages, but some of the locals say the history goes back to farming and creating terraces of level ground for crops and cattle even before the fishermen established their industry. Breakfast is generally always included with a hotel stay, and most often starts with coffee – espresso, cappuccino or Americano. You can expect breads, some type of meat protein, cheeses and a choice of yogurt, fruits and assorted pastries. Anchovies are the local fish, often eaten on salads or pizza, but not salted or cured. Because they are fresh, the flavor is more delicate, especially when lightly fried on a platter shared with local mussels and calamari. Liguria is the home of pesto. Apparently, pesto was "invented" in a small village outside of Genoa when the monks of a monastery dedicated to St. Basil gathered the aromatic ground cover growing on the hills. This "basil' was pounded by mortar and pestle with other local ingredients including pine nuts from trees that dotted the countryside, cheese from nearby dairy cows and olive oil. Today, Pesto Genovese is a popular pasta dish, particularly using trofie, which is a local twisted pasta cut into little rods. Focaccia and bruschetta are popular as street food or small plates, often with pesto and tomatoes, olive tapenade, little shrimp or freshly caught anchovies. We sampled the local flavors at Beach Bar Stella Marina on Monterosso's waterfront. Dinner includes local breads and antipasto of local hams and cheese, and of course there's no shortage of pizza or gelato. When to Go May has become an incredibly popular month for tourism in Italy. No longer will you beat the crowds if you head over mid-May. If you go in the summer, hiking trails may be overcrowded, and the sun can become intense. We went the first week of May, and it was perfect. Admittedly, luck played a part of that because after we left, the area was hit with three days of heavy rain. But - it's the rain that keeps the lush green mountains producing the crops and creating the jaw-dropping scenery. Sustainability As countries and regions across the globe find ways to address climate change, the challenges seem most real in ancient areas where infrastructure may be delicate or protected - and preserving history is a zoning priority over solar panels and other visible technological upgrades. Hotels, for the most part, seem to have adopted the practice of less frequent laundry service. Single-use plastic seems to have vanished. You may not get a straw unless you ask for it, and it will be a paper straw. If you order take-away from a restaurant, you will not get plastic utensils and you will not get Styrofoam. Paper and wood have replaced plastic throughout the area – at least from what I saw. Cinque Terre Hiking – 10 Tips for Planning Your Trip
The Cinque Terre Train Pass allows you to easily find a home base and begin each day in a different spot. With this in mind, here are some tips to help enjoy daily walks in the Cinque Terre:
Marcia Simon is a Connecticut-based travel writer and owner of Friendly Group Travel. Connect via Facebook or Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or send email to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com. written and photographed by by Marcia Simon, APR, CTA, copyright 2022 Some places you visit only once in a lifetime. Others keep calling you back. For outdoor enthusiasts in the Northeast, Acadia National Park, with its gateway town of Bar Harbor, can easily become a family go-to or an outdoor escape in Northeastern United States. Last time I visited Acadia was pre-COVID 2018. This part of Maine had already become known as a big tourist area rather than a hidden gem. Advisories warned that parking is limited so getting into the park early was, and remains, a key factor to beat the crowds. This time (August 2022) had a few new twists, one being the required $6 car reservation to drive up to the top of Cadillac Mountain. The view is spectacular – unless you arrive on a foggy morning when you may only be able to see for 10 feet in front of your nose. Cadillac Mountain marks the most eastern point in the US - so this is the first place in the country to experience sunrise. Another beautiful aspect of visiting Acadia is the change between seasons, so the experience is different depending on when you visit. Autumn colors are gorgeous with cooling temperatures during the day and nights that invite you to buy a warm fluffy hoodie from one of the shops in town. The best new addition to Acadia National Park is getting around by e-bike. While the area still attracts plenty of avid cyclists pedaling the paved roads and the ascent to the top of Cadillac Mountain, e-bikes make it easier for the rest of us. Especially nice is being able to take the e-bikes on the park's 45-miles of car-free walking and cycling trails, originally built for horse-drawn carriages. Today, horse-drawn carriage tours are offered by reservation. ![]() E-bikes are available from Acadia Bike in town or reserve one on Viator and pick it up at Acadia's Hulls Cove Visitor Center. People who prefer water over wheels or walking have multiple choices for exploring Acadia by kayak or sightseeing boat, increasing the chance of seeing bald eagles, puffins and seals among other wildlife. The only national park on the Northeast coast, Acadia's "carry-in carry-out" policy requires you to bring your own beverages and snacks. The Jordan Pond House Restaurant is the only location in the park for purchasing food and beverages. It's a lovely spot, especially sitting outside overlooking the pond. Walking around Jordan Pond is a popular activity. This gentle trail is well suited for families. The restaurant gets quite crowded, especially because bus tours often stop there, so it's best to go during an off-peak time, or wait and enjoy one of the many restaurants outside the park. First-time visitors to the area quickly learn that the park is Acadia; the town just outside the park is Bar Harbor. During visiting season, free shuttles run constantly throughout the day and evening between Bar Harbor's Village Green and several popular hotels closer to the park, making it very easy to drop into town for dinner. There are lots of choices and, for the most part, dinner reservations have become essential if you want to be seated before 8 pm. There are also free shuttles that stop at campsites and top tourist sites inside the park. Bar Harbor has a variety of accommodations. Many comfy B&Bs are within walking distance of the Village Green. These are ideal for couples because most have one large bed without the ability to accommodate more than two guests per room. For families and small groups of friends, the hotels along Eden Street have more options for room types, and several lower-priced motels are available in the nearby town of Ellsworth. The Bar Harbor Regency (also known as the Holiday Inn Resort Bar Harbor) is one of the few hotels in the area boasting waterfront accommodations with balconies, a heated outdoor pool, a large hot tub (especially inviting on chilly nights), along with two restaurants (one waterfront, one water-view) and a pool bar. It's also a shuttle stop, making getting into town super-easy. The CAT high-speed ferry to Nova Scotia docks next door. Gone are the days of heading to Maine for a great bargain on lobster rolls. With tourists in the mix, and restaurants making the most of their short tourist season before winter creeps in, 2022 lobster prices in Bar Harbor are higher than ever. ($36 for a lobster roll and fries!)
Getting into the park requires a parking fee of $20 per carload. The pass gets you in for a week-long visit so you can come and go on your schedule. A National Park Pass is a good value for families that visit multiple parks each year. For people age 62 and older, the lifetime Senior Pass is a fantastic value for a one-time $80 fee, and provides access to every National Park throughout the US. Marcia Simon is a writer, a traveler, and a travel advisor ready to help you plan your next trip. Connect on Instagram @friendlygrouptravel, Facebook @friendlygrouptravel, Twitter @friendsgotravel, or drop a note to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com. ![]() written and photographed by Marcia Simon , CTA, APR, copyright 2022 The ferry from Cedar Island on North Carolina's mainland to Ocracoke takes two and a half hours – just enough time to transition from "hurry up" mode to "island time." Ocracoke is the bottom of North Carolina's barrier islands known as the Outer Banks, or OBX. The ferry pulls into Ocracoke's island-vibe village where you'll soon see enticing small shops, intriguing seafood and BBQ restaurants - and a few motels that make it pretty tempting to stay and soak up the atmosphere. Being on a discovery mission, a lunch stop of fresh tuna and mahi-mahi sandwiches at touristy Howard's Pub and Raw Bar was enough of a break before heading north along Ocracoke's 16-mile stretch to the Ocracoke-Hatteras ferry. This crossing took an hour from point to point. Unlike the Cedar Island trip that allowed reservations and cost $15 for a car and two passengers, this ferry is free and operates on a first-come basis. Mid-afternoon in June was early enough to beat both the summer crowds and the day-trippers from Hatteras to Ocracoke who wait in long lines to return before dinnertime. Hatteras Continuing the journey up the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and hoping to stumble upon the kind of quaint B&Bs and inns that mark the New England coastline, the area was instead dotted with family-style motels and row after row of big beach houses on stilts. It was evident that house rentals are the big draw for families who come for a week or more to Hatteras and neighboring Frisco, with kids, beach toys, and sometimes grandparents in tow. The Outer Banks are all about the beach. These barrier islands stretch for 200 miles along the Atlantic Ocean off the coasts of North Carolina and southeastern Virginia. Mini-golf and ice cream are always within reasonable distance. For adults traveling without kids, it may be about the shrimp and oysters, both of which are local, fresh and delicious. Want a really fresh catch? Head to one of the outer Banks' five fishing piers or head out on a charter boat. Parasailing, jet skis and kayaks are all easy to find. But chilling at the beach is the #1 pastime here. Without a care or a reservation, the Surf Side motel in Nags Head, about halfway from bottom to top of the barrier island, came into view and had an available oceanfront room with a balcony. Sipping wine and watching sunlight fade away, that magical sound of ocean-meets-shore made for a relaxed evening, voluntarily disconnected from emails and nightly news. It's funny how you can overpack and then realize you brought long pants you'd never wear, but not enough shorts, and how suddenly you yearn for a new pair of flip flops. What a great excuse to pop into stores along the way. You'll see a chain called Wings (sometimes Super Wings), which is not a restaurant as Northerners may initially think, but a T-shirt, sunscreen, beach towel and souvenir stop. A little farther north is Kill Devil Hill, home to the Wright Brothers National Memorial. If you happen to have a National Park Pass, you'll get in for free; otherwise, it's $10 per person. If you have time, make it a point to stop. Orville and Wilbur Wright chose this spot to test their dreams of flight because its windy for lift off – and sandy for (hopefully soft) landings and inevitable falls during trials and development. Kitty Hawk, as the area was known when the Wright Brothers came here in 1902, is today known as Kill Devil Hills. In 1903 the brothers achieved success with the first-ever powered aircraft. Orville flew and controlled the plane. And this marked the very beginning of airline travel as we know it today. The Sanderling in Duck Duck is a town toward the northern end of the Outer Banks, and The Sanderling is a lovely hotel about four miles north of Duck's town center, wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and Currituck Bay. The Sanderling is truly the only resort of its kind in OBX, with 120 guest rooms and suites, plus house rentals (accommodating from 8 to 16 guests) and views of the ocean or the bay. Two outdoor pools (one for families and kids; the other adults-only), one indoor pool, a spa, outdoor hot tub, fire pits, plenty of beach chairs and umbrellas, and bike rentals make this a comfortable place to spend a few days. Restaurant choices include the Lifesaving Station, which serves three meals daily in a casual, family-style atmosphere. The cuisine is southern coastal and regional using locally sourced ingredients when possible. It has a friendly bar, too. Fine dining at the Sanderling's Kimball's Kitchen features floor-to-ceiling windows facing west to watch the sunset. The third restaurant is the outdoor Sandbar where bare feet are acceptable and frozen drinks are specialties. From top-quality salads to burgers, it's a convenient spot to grab a bite near the pool, the beach, or your room. Although not part of The Sanderling, The Paper Canoe is a highly recommended restaurant directly across the street. It's a favorite with locals, so make a reservation far in advance if you want to watch the sunset and enjoy a creative menu. By the way, a sanderling is a bird – a type of sandpiper that runs up and down the beach chasing waves. Sweet. Duck – The Town – and Beyond To get to the Sanderling, you'll pass through the town of Duck, known for its boutique shops and low-key restaurants. Duck is cute. ![]() The town park offers one of the access parking lots to the boardwalk, which is about a mile long, and weaves its way along the coastline, dipping in and out of retail clusters, pubs and ice cream stands. Venturing north of Duck you'll find Corolla, a lively yet laid back tourist area. Take a 4WD beach Hummer tour to see the wild mustang horses on the northernmost beaches of the Outer Banks. Another option to see the horses is by kayak tour. The mustangs are descendants of domesticated horses brought to the area in the 1500s by Spanish explorers and left behind — either by choice or accident. They are technically now wild. By the way, wild horses can also be seen on Ocracoke Island just south of the Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry docks. Leaving the Outer Banks to return north on the mainland from Corolla or Duck, requires a short drive south to Route 158 just north of Kitty Hawk. This goes over the Wright Memorial Bridge, the most-travelled route to and from OBX. You'll pass H2OBX Waterpark, which screams fun and makes you wish you had made time to go there for a great family fun day. The closest commercial airport to the Outer Banks is 60-miles away in Norfolk, Virginia. Most people pack the car and make this a road trip. If you plan to go in summer, reservations in advance are highly recommended. Marcia Simon is a travel advisor, travel writer and founder of FriendlyGroupTravel.com, specializing in customized trips for families, small groups and solos. Connect at facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel, Instagram @friendlygrouptravel, Twitter @friendsgotravel or call 860-399-0191. written and photographed by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR, copyright 2022 Standing under a stream of warm water in an outdoor rain shower is nothing short of luscious, especially when you look up toward the dense green foliage surrounding your private casita near Costa Rica's Arenal Volcano. ![]() The stunning greenery challenges anyone who questions the importance of protecting these nature-filled rainforests, aptly named because it does rain here, sometimes daily, if only for a short period. But the rain is warm and passes quickly in dry season and, after all, that's why it's so intensely verdant and filled with flowers, ferns, frogs, birds, monkeys and rich soil that feeds a healthy ecosystem. A cloudy sky or gentle rain makes the greens even richer – like fully saturated film colors. That said, those in search of a tropical beach may long for an ocean view with nonstop sun. Costa Rica certainly has plenty of sunny coastline, which makes a combination rainforest/beach vacation a perfect trip, especially if you want to taste more of this Central American paradise. What's the difference between a jungle and a rainforest? A jungle has year-round tropical weather. A rainforest climate, on the other hand, can be either temperate or tropical, with tall trees that block sunlight, preventing heavy undergrowth typically found in a jungle. Both have heavy rainy seasons but while a jungle is warm, humid and has sunlight, a rainforest is humid, damp, and darker. Staying at a hotel or resort that is both authentic and eco-friendly makes perfect sense when staying in Costa Rica's rainforest, and there are plenty of choices at various levels. by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR Couples Resorts are exactly what the name implies - a place for couples – to unwind, chill and choose from a long list of complimentary options, such as water sports, yoga, snorkeling, how-to classes and of course - unlimited food and beverages. Solo travelers are welcome and will feel comfortable. Couples is adult-only; the rooms have king beds (no doubles). Exclusive to Jamaica, Couples owns four properties – two in Ocho Rios and two in Negril. Couples Tower Isle in Ocho Rios, which opened in 1978, was a trendsetter back in the day as the first all-inclusive property in Jamaica. Today, Couples is often perceived as an affordable alternative to Sandals. The vibe between the two is very different. Couples is laid back, smaller, more authentic to Jamaican style, although some may feel that the intentionally-preserved retro feel of Tower Isle may be a bit old fashioned. There's no doubt, though, that Couples provides great value for all its amenities and perks. Free airport transfers are always included, and so are green fees for golf. The nonmotorized water sports equipment is clean and in good condition. If you want to take out one of the catamarans (holding up to four people) or try your hand at windsurfing or paddleboarding, they'll get you set up. If you want a lesson, that's included, too, which is nice because some other all-inclusive brands charge for instruction. Whether you stay at Couples San Souci or Tower Isle in Ocho Rios, or Couples Negril or Swept Away on Negril's beautiful fine-sand seven-mile beach, you'll receive a complimentary excursion or day trip. In Ocho Rios it's a visit to the famous Dunn's River Falls. Bring (or buy) watershoes for a good grip on the rocks as you join a hearty group walking up the falls. It's not steep, but it can have challenging moments. You will get wet, and it's a must-do when given the opportunity. In Negril, all guests are invited for a sunset catamaran cruise and swim. The ocean water is warm, the sunset view is fantastic and gets you prepared for dinner upon your return to the island. Surprisingly, a large number of guests are repeat visitors to Couples who come back year after year for the laid back attitude and the comfort of a resort that's not too big. Some of the coconut trees on the properties are very old, and Couples has a policy of not disturbing nature's intention of letting them be. So, even from the waterview rooms, trees may obstruct your view as you gaze from your balcony to the sea. After a day, and realizing that you don't really spend much time in the room, it's all fine. Tower Isle, San Souci and Couples Negril all have allocated space for an au natural (aka nude) beach during daytime hours. It's private, has a separate bar area and attracts a decent-sized crowd. Swept Away is known for its 10-acre sports and fitness complex. If you're not into sports, you won't even know it's there, but if you cross the street from the beach to the complex, you'll find an Olympic-size lap pool, tennis and pickleball courts and a fitness center equipped with top-notch workout equipment that has attracted pro teams to come and train. In a nutshell, San Souci has neat nooks and crannies, a mineral pool and jacuzzi, and also a lot of steps around the property, which some people love and others would rather avoid. Tower Isle is very walkable for people who prefer a flat landscape. It preserves its vintage Jamaican style. Couples Negril has escaped the modernization of many resorts on the island. It's unpretentious, with four restaurants. Swept Away is on the gorgeous seven-mile beach. All four resorts offer interesting day trips, from waterfalls, rafting and ziplines, to ATV riding, to the Appleton Rum and Blue Mountain Coffee tours, allowing you to stay as busy as you want to be. There's morning yoga and plenty to do onsite.
Throughout the Couples brand, the food is quite good. The bartenders are super friendly. You'll find authenticity in atmosphere. It's not too rowdy, not too quiet. There's nightly entertainment that adds to the Jamaican spell of hospitality. With affordable nonstop flights from New York, Couples is one of the best values you can find for a tropical getaway. Marcia Simon, a Connecticut-based travel writer, is owner of Friendly Group Travel, specializing in trip planning throughout North America, Europe and the Caribbean. Connect on Instagram @friendlygrouptravel, Facebook @friendlygrouptravel, Twitter @friendsgotravel, or drop a note to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com. ![]() by Marcia Simon An experience or a thing? This girl bets her money on an experience, especially when it involves a "child" who just finished school abroad after two years of COVID-induced travel restrictions. It was time for one proud mama and her academically-fatigued son to reunite and embark on a month-long cross-country adventure. The packed car included two suitcases, two guitars, hiking shoes, flip flops, big beach towels and a cooler filled with seltzers, beer, yogurt, cheese, crackers and whatever fruit and miscellaneous snacks fit atop the ice chips. It's a joy and a blessing to fall back into step with someone you haven't seen in ages. Sometimes it's months, sometimes years, decades even. One thing's for sure though – compatibility for travel can make or break any trip, not to mention the relationship. Being in total sync about heading west from Connecticut with absolutely no itinerary or plan, the road trip to explore America's Native roots began. When it was all done, this duo logged 27 days, 8,686 miles, passed through 25 states and visited 14 national parks, not to mention national monuments such as Mount Rushmore, Bandelier Native American cave dwellings, the striated Painted Desert, and oddities including the Spam Museum that houses the world's first motorcycle fueled by bacon, The Corn Palace with gigantic murals made exclusively from ears of corn, and the Jolly Green Giant statue that salutes the company that made canned and frozen vegetables a staple of the American diet.
Once out west, it became evident that, contrary to the politically correct language of a middle class upbringing, the term "American Indian" was preferred over "Native American," which supposedly is now falling out of favor with some Native people who use "indigenous" as their personal preference. ![]() by Marcia Simon, CTA Fully vaccinated and ready to travel. The world is opening up and people are dusting off their traveling shoes... or flip flops as the case may be. If you want a quick, inexpensive nonstop flight from NY - or Connecticut's Bradley International Airport - you can easily get to Cancun, the gateway to the Yucatan Peninsula. Riviera Maya is south of Cancun on the Caribbean Sea. This popular destination is lined with beachfront resorts, many all-inclusive, at various levels. Taking the plunge back into travel mode, it's important to stay at a place you trust for COVID-safety standards, where you can get your mandated COVID-test onsite before returning to the United States, and where you can obviously enjoy great food, a huge pool with ample availability of loungers, an endless view of the sea and horizon, and a long list of optional daily activities that you can pursue or blow off depending on your state of mind. Cancun has a reputation as Party Central, but it's not necessary to be part of that culture. Locations outside of the popular hotel zone are quieter, with options for everyone from understated luxury to multigenerational family fun. I visited two properties, both part of the AM Resorts collection, on a recent trip to Puerto Morelos about a half hour south of Cancun. This is considered the northern tip of the Riviera Maya region. A two-night stay at the luxury Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita (the pretty paradise) was the perfect transition from COVID-homebody to comfortable traveler. The name Zoëtry is loosely translated to capture a philosophy centered around "the art of life." The Zoëtry brand, found in Mexico, Dominican Republic, Jamaica and St. Martin, is about serenity and wellness. This 5-Diamond AAA-rated resort does a very good job at remaining unpretentious while delivering a high standard of client care and service. As an example, on the second day of the trip I misplaced my sunglasses. It happens. Asking if there was lost and found, Omar, who was at the lobby's front desk, made a call and happily reported that the glasses were secure and would be dropped off at the office in about 15 minutes. What a pleasant surprise to have butler service deliver the missing specs to my table while lazily sipping morning coffee and pondering the breakfast menu, which included fresh fruit, yogurt, "green juice" and traditional bacon and eggs, along with authentic Mexican dishes with local flavors. A local artist uses natural pigments to paint colorful birds and scenes for interior spaces, while exterior surfaces are painted in reddish and gold hues, true to Mayan culture. Another way the resort shares the history of the area is through a one-hour spiritual Temazcal ceremony led by a healer. You'll also find daily yoga, alternating days of Tai Chi and sound meditation, with aqua exercise and stretching in the saltwater pool. The larger freshwater pool overlooks the ocean and guests get very attentive drink (and food) service. Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita has an onsite "marina" at the end of the dock that includes a catamaran and a dive boat for snorkeling, sightseeing and trips to the nearby reef. Zoëtry is ideal for couples; children are welcome with families, but we didn't see many; solo travelers would also feel comfortable here. Also in the AM Resorts collection is Now Sapphire, where I spent three nights and plenty of time in the pools. The main pool is close to the open air lounge and offers a swim-up bar and plenty of loungers both in and out of the water. There's also a quieter, and quite lovely, adult-only pool, with bar, for guests in the Preferred category of rooms. The Now brand is well suited for multigenerational families, and there were plenty of grandparents with their adult kids and favorite little ones. There's a children's Explorers Club with a small water park and supervised outdoor, shaded activity center. It's also affordable for groups of friends, and certainly for couples. Now Sapphire and Now Jade, both in Riviera Maya, are in the process of transitioning to be Dreams resorts, which are also part of the AM Resorts collection. HOT TIP: Book a future trip at one of these Now resorts, and the price will be honored at the higher-priced Dreams. The transition should be complete this summer for Now/Dreams Jade, and October for Now/Dreams Sapphire. Now is for people who want a livelier atmosphere, and has more than 400 rooms and suites; Zoëtry, with fewer than 100 suites, is for those who want serene reflection and a calming experience. These were two very different experiences. One common thread is that both Zoëtry and Now are operating at limited capacity. Vaccines are not yet as readily available in Mexico since the vaccines are not produced inside the country. Although adults over 40 and all teachers and front line workers have been offered the vaccine, many of the younger hotel staff are not yet eligible as of this writing in June 2021. For this reason, it's a great sign of respect for visiting travelers to wear masks in accordance with signage prominently displayed for indoor spaces. The resorts both showed that they are very serious about safety, sanitizing, and keeping everyone healthy. As is the trend, both Zoëtry and Now Sapphire used their down time, when rooms were closed to tourists, to add plunge pools and first-floor swim-out suites to several accommodations. These, plus the beautiful, clean pools, made it very easy to forgive the fact that sargassum (a type of seaweed) still plagues much of Mexico's east coast during parts of the year. Believed to be caused by warming oceans and changing currents as a result of climate change, and fueled by landscape fertilizers that find their way into the ocean, this sargassum is now washing onto beaches at several Caribbean islands that never experienced it before. It's also making itself known in Florida. Hotels are doing all they can during sargassum months, but Mother Nature rules the sea. Get out. Experience life. Travel more, stay safe, and see the world in a new light. Marcia Simon, a Connecticut-based travel writer, is owner of Friendly Group Travel, specializing in trip planning throughout North America, Europe and the Caribbean. Connect on Instagram @friendlygrouptravel, Facebook @friendlygrouptravel, Twitter @friendsgotravel, or drop a note to welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com. ![]() by Marcia Simon, CTA, APR It's been a weird school year for students and their families. Understatement. With graduations just around the bend, finding the right kind of celebration to honor your favorite student, is particularly challenging amid the lingering pandemic. The upside is that people are getting vaccinated, and travel is becoming safer. With this in mind, here are a few ways to celebrate this year's graduation, which may mean making up for lost time or finding a reason to get the whole multigenerational family together. For lasting impact and memories that will last a lifetime - hands down, the answer is travel – whether you're celebrating a graduation or just need to get the family together. 5 Family Travel Ideas to Celebrate a Graduation 1. Rent a house or villa Not quite ready to step into a full return to post-COVID activities? Villas and house rentals are very popular this year. Some have minimum-length stays; others allow you to stay for a quick weekend, an extended weekend or longer immersion. Suites at hotels that provide deep sanitized cleaning between guests add a layer of safety. Get an exclusive package at Tranquility Bay in the Florida Keys: like a 3-bedroom waterfront beach house with full kitchen, living room, oceanfront patio, laundry facilities, three swimming pools, mini-golf, snorkeling and family activities on premises, close to restaurants, fishing boats, bicycling and more. 2. All-Inclusive resort There's something for everyone of any age. The kids can enjoy a sailing lesson while parents try the stand-up paddle boards, and grandparents relax poolside after a morning yoga class. Gather for meals and excursions at an all-inclusive that matches your family's personality. ClubMed has new locations with larger family accommodations and optional activities all day long. Hotel Xcaret, in Mexico near Tulum, includes zip lining, water parks and the famed Xcaret eco-park. 3. Walking tours Create your own private guided group or choose a self-guided option, complete with maps and local assistance if you need it. Whichever you choose, your breakfast and dinner will be included (with recommended lunch options for self-guided trips.) Luggage is transported every morning to your next destination at an authentic boutique hotel or B&B. What a fantastic way to spend family time together outdoors. Itineraries are available within the US and abroad with Easy, Moderate and Challenging levels. 4. Boat Spend a week with your family on a private catamaran, which sails flatter than a monohull. Choose to have a captain and cook, so you are completely free to do as much or as little as you want. Pull up on beaches to explore villages, cultural sites or local culinary adventures.. Bahamas and Virgin Islands are popular destinations for ideal weather and crystal clear turquoise waters. 5. Road trip Pack the car, fill the cooler and head out. There's no telling if Americans will be able to cross the Canadian border this summer, pending COVID-restrictions. Explore Maine with its coastal communities, islands, or inland lakes and rivers (family rafting!). Or head down the Blue Ridge Parkway to the Smokey Mountains, filled with opportunities for outdoor exploration. If you have more time, Add Nashville for a diverse music and food scene - and a must-do experience at the Grand Ole Opry. This summer is expected to be very busy at the National Parks, so book as early as you can. Maybe this is the summer to get a bike rack and head to the Finger Lakes. Not in shape for the hills? No worries - ebikes are readily available at rental shops. You might also consider a fly-drive experience, or renting a camper. Campers and RVs have gone upscale since COVID scared people away from hotels. As with all travel plans mid- and post-pandemic, it's very important to understand the cancellation policies of any hotels, airlines and travel vendors you choose. An informed travel advisor can help navigate these changing conditions and provide peace of mind should your travel plans need to change. Need help planning your family getaway? Call 860-399-0191 or email welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com. Initial consultations are always free. ![]() by Marcia Simon By industry standards, the North Fork of Long Island is still in its winemaking infancy. The region's viticulture reputation has been steadily on the rise since 1973 when its first commercial grape vines were planted. The region now boasts about 55 wineries and vineyards. Unlike Connecticut, where driving takes all day to follow the wine trail from Stonington to Litchfield, a 25-mile span along eastern Long island's north coast allows for easy stops for tastings, picnicking and musical entertainment in season. During a COVID-winter, the scene is surely different and very quiet mid-week, which is attractive to people more interested in the wines themselves. It's a quick getaway that is as COVID-safe as you make it. The North Fork is as laid back as Long Island gets. Its popularity as a destination is growing as the quality of its wines and oysters are added to restaurant menus across the country. This unpretentious east end of Long Island is less than 100 miles from New York City, and less than 90 minutes with a car on the Cross Sound Ferry from New London to Orient Point. The water, air and soil trifecta Surrounded by Long Island Sound, the Peconic Bay and salt water from the Atlantic Ocean, the North Fork is buffered from both warm and cold fronts. This unique climate protects grapes through a long growing season and gives winemakers more control over their harvests; they can pick their fruits at peak times for ripeness. The region's most popular varietals include Bordeaux-style reds – Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec from which winemakers create their signature blends. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are popular whites, but even more inviting than a soft white is a glass of North Fork Rosé or Gewürztraminer, which many think of as sweet wines, but after tasting a few, it's safe to say that many are refreshingly light and dry. My two travel companions and I enjoyed tasting flights at multiple vineyards during a January road trip along Routes 25 and 48 between the towns of Peconic and Jamesport. We visited the grounds of several others, too to get a feel for their upcoming in-season outdoor scene and COVID-safety. Featured Vineyards Starting at Pellegrini Vineyards in Cutchogue, we were the only tasters at 12 noon. We tried four varietals and surprisingly preferred the easy-drinking, dry 2019 Rosé. Pellegrini's tasting room mixes old world charm with modern open space and technology. Guests are welcome to walk over to the adjacent building to view the stainless steel fermentation tanks, behind glass walls, used in the winemaking process. Pellegrini's winemaker is Zander Hargrave, son of Alex and Louisa Hargrave who were pioneers of the North Fork wine industry with their vines back in 1973. The largest of all the Long Island vineyards is Pindar Vineyards in Peconic, This family owned-and-operated vineyard is run by siblings Pindar, Alexander and Alethea Damianos. A fourth sibling, Jason, was an integral part of the family operation, too, and later opened Jason's Vineyard in Jamesport. An unfortunate car accident took Jason's life in 2015, and the Damianos family now operates Jason's as well as Duck Walk in Southold, which their father acquired in 1994. Remembering a blueberry port wine I tasted years ago at Duck Walk Vineyards, my travel companions and I stopped in to try it again. We also tried their Boysenberry Fruit Wine, which is not a port, but a very tasty after-meal sipper. The family patriarch, Dr. Herodotus Damianos, known as Dr. Dan, was an internal medicine physician by profession when his winemaking vision led him to purchase 36 acres of potato farmland in 1979 on which he planted his first Chardonnay grapes from California vines. Today, Pindar's 500 acres yield 17 varieties of grapes and more than 70,000 cases of wine every year. As large as it is, Pindar Vineyards' comfortable atmosphere provides a warm environment for tasting their popular reds such as Cabernet Franc, Pythagoras. We particularly enjoyed their Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and Cabernet port. Pindar is among the pioneering vineyards of the North Fork sustainable wine movement away from chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Their massive composting operation combines lawn clippings from dozens of local landscapers, fish parts from a local seafood wholesaler, and their own grape skins. Tons of this rich organic compost is spread over the vineyard's sandy soil to enrich the grapes. COVID-19 Precautions Although some Vineyards are closed for winter, or operate on limited hours during the pandemic, the wineries we visited all took their safety precautions very seriously. Some offer tastings by reservation only; others accept drop ins, with occupancy limits. Mid-week in January, the tasting rooms were practically, and sometimes literally, empty; we felt very COVID-safe the entire time. Visitor traffic picks up on weekends, we were told, so mid-week is advantageous. Masks are required everywhere to keep staff and visitors safe. Travelers who want to venture out with their bubble (up to six people) before the crowds return for spring season can rent one of the Bergen Road Bungalows at Macari Vineyards. These private, cozy heated tents provide your group with four hours of relaxed tastings from the selection of flagship Macari wines paired with a locally prepared gourmet lunch overlooking the grape vines on this 180-acre vineyard. An Overnight Delight After tasting wines at four vineyards, we were ready to check in to the Sound View Hotel in Greenport, three miles west of the village, and a short ride from most vineyards. Arriving before sunset, we watched the sky's changing colors from the deck of our room. If you didn't know its story, you'd drive by Sound View, thinking this is still a 50s-era roadside motel. Now owned by Eagle Point Hotel Partners, renovations began a few years ago and are ongoing. Simple, rustic and modern all at the same time, this hotel feels beachy and upscale at the same time. All rooms provide waterfront views of Long Island Sound. It's so close to the water that you might get sea spray on your windows during a storm. The hotel's Halyard Restaurant had limited winter pandemic hours. However, the to-go menu includes plenty of tempting items available for room delivery. From chowder to chili, turkey-bacon wraps to fish and chips, local sea scallops, salads and a kids' menu. That night we were able to decipher the beacon patterns from Old Saybrook breakwater and the red blinking light that marks the channel by Duck Island in Westbrook. It's 14 miles across the Sound from this location and the winter wind on the water kept the sky clear across to Connecticut.
From Potatoes to Grapes Long before the first grape vines were planted on the North Fork, its rich fertile soil attracted potato farmers who moved east when suburban sprawl started to take over the land closer to the New York City. In the 1940s, about 80 percent of all farming on Long Island was dedicated to potatoes, according to potatonewstoday.com. Potato farming still exists on the North Fork. In fact, North Fork Potato Chips is a thriving business. Farm stands serve many of the local restaurants with fresh vegetables and fruits and season, and the oyster farms ship nationwide. But it's the grapes that are the North Fork's current attraction from a growing number of visitors. Marcia Simon, CTA, APR, is a Connecticut-based travel writer and advisor. Contact her at welcome@friendlygrouptravel.com, on Instagram at friendlygrouptravel, facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel and Twitter @friendsgotravel. |
AuthorMarcia Simon, CTA, APR, has been exploring new places since she was 17 years old and traveled around Europe on a Eurailpass with her best friend. Decades later, she still considers travel the best investment of time and money she's ever made for herself and her family. Categories
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