Norway Highlights in 4 Days

by Marcia Simon

A typical scene along the fjord near Gudvangen

---

The travel radar screen has discovered Norway, which is becoming a "go to" destination. And for good reason.
 
With jaw-dropping beauty, pristine landscapes, cooler climate, and sustainability efforts that show a commitment to preserve it all, the natural beauty of Norway is still largely undiscovered by travelers beyond Europe. With the Northern Lights in winter and Midnight Sun in summer, this is where outdoor enthusiasts can experience some of nature's most precious gifts.

Norway is large, flanked by Sweden to the right and the Atlantic Ocean to the left. About 75 percent of Norway is mountainous. The Scandinavian Mountains, also known as the Scandes, run north to south. The terrain prohibits train routes to many places in the north where population is largely along the coast. The small villages are charming; the people who live here year-round are hearty. The government led the way for two companies running Norway's ships that deliver mail and local passengers along the coast to welcome tourists onboard with a unique experience into Scandinavian culture, local cuisine and private cabins.
 
For the most part, vacationers find it most practical to stay in the southern half of Norway, with its magnificent fjords, airports and public transportation system. A fjord is a long, deep, narrow body of water that begins at the ocean and reaches far inland. The distinct glacier-formed fjords are framed by steep mountains or rock on either side. Fjords are only found in a handful of places on Earth. Norway's Geirangerfjord is considered perhaps the most beautiful and famous in the world.
 
A trip to Norway isn't complete without a trip up one of the fjords - either a day excursion, an overnight ship or a leisurely ferry. It depends on your frame of mind and pace of travel. The city of Bergen is known as the country's Fjord Capital.

One relatively easy way to see the fjords and popular destinations, or "Norway's Greatest Hits" as one might say, is marketed as Norway in a Nutshell, which combines train, boat and bus to travel between Norway's capital Oslo, and Bergen, situated between the two largest fjords in Norway, which may be why it's known as the country's  fjord capital. The journey takes you through beautiful fjords and up to an elevation where you're likely to see snow in late-spring and sometimes through the summer.
 
It's possible to speed through a Norway in a Nutshell itinerary in a day if you simply want a scenic ride from point to point. Or you can take a week or more to stop along the way to spend a few nights at one of the lovely fjord-facing hotels or campgrounds along the route. Camping in Norway often means staying in a basic cabin, sometimes with a small kitchen and private bathroom. These cabins are very popular with European travelers; advance booking is highly recommended.

I opted for a 3-night getaway as part of a larger trip in Scandinavia. Here's how it went:
 
Flights from Copenhagen in Denmark to Bergen in Norway are short and inexpensive on EasyJet and SAS airlines. Upon arrival we took a train from the airport to Bergen's Central Station and walked the short distance to Bryggen or "The Wharf."

Choosing the centuries-old Det Hanseatiske hotel gave us a glimpse into Bryggen's history and involvement in the Hanseatic League, which was a maritime merchant trade group of European countries in the 13th to 15th centuries. Bryggen's harbor, now known as the Old Town, offers an easy stroll along the shop-lined waterfront. Visitors can enjoy a fish sandwich from Fisktorget, or fish market. After lunch we walked around town and picked up four types of freshly smoked fish, a crusty loaf of bread, local cheese, beers and a few bottles of delicious Sammy Smith pear cider for an outdoor picnic dinner.

The next morning, we walked over to Floibanen, Bergen's funicular that goes up the mountain to Floyen, self-described as "the green mountain in the middle of the city. The place where you can learn about nature and be inspired to take care of it."  The ride up is short and when you arrive you can see the city of Bergen below and the mountain peaks that envelop it.

There are several hiking trails suitable for various levels of difficulty when you get to the top of Floyen. We opted for one that would bring us back down to sea level in a leisurely three hours. We got back in plenty of time to enjoy a simple dinner of burgers and salads.

The next day started with an early walk over to Bergen's central station to begin our Norway in a Nutshell experience with a train ride to Voss. You notice lots of people traveling the same journey and realize that this trip has a degree of tourist commercialism. And yet, the scenery is spectacular from the big windows on the train and then on the bus that drops you at the beautiful fjord-facing town of Gudvangen with two tourist cafeterias, picnic tables and a gift shop. With a two-hour wait for the boat, you're bound to buy something.
 
The boat ride to Flåm was gorgeous. This village is another perfect spot for staying a few extra days. You have a choice of restaurants, a craft beer brewery, a food truck area, and a limited number of hotels by the water, including Flamsbrygga and Fretheim. There's also a campground with tent, cabin and RV options. Early reservations for any type of accommodation are strongly recommended for peak season. For those who can't find a place to stay in Flåm, nearby Aurland is also beautiful. This area is incredible for photography, hiking, kayaking and rib boats.

The Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana) is right in the heart of Flåm Village and takes you to the next stop – Myrdal. The train stops on the way at a magnificent waterfall, one of many that become part of the fjord experience.

As the train ascended into a higher elevation the landscape became snow-covered and desolate. There's a change of trains, and a short coffee break in Vatnahalsen, which is known for its ski and bicycle trails. It's also where you'll find the Flam zipline, the longest in Northern Europe, which is popular among a niche category of adventure travelers and has been used for practical purposes to get goods quickly down the mountain to the villages below.

The mountain stop in Vatnahalsen might greet you with snow, even in May.

Another adventure option is to take the train to Myrdal and then rent a bike for a one-way ride down the gentle descent traversing numerous bends on the designated bike and pedestrian path to Flåm. The train passes through the nearby remote town of Finse, with a population of less than 100 people, which was chosen for the opening scene for the movie Star Wars: The Emperor Strikes Back.
 
Our Nutshell experience ended by train in Norway's capital city of Oslo. Had there been more time (Is there ever enough time?) we could have stayed for a night. (During a previous trip I visited the Vigeland Sculpture Park, which is a must-do. Oslo is a great city for foodies in search of Norwegian cuisine. We had a plane to catch so took a connecting train directly to the airport and headed back to Denmark. While these two countries are both part of Scandinavia with similar cultures and a deep commitment toward sustainability and environmental protection, they also have very different vibes. In Denmark everything seems close and connected. Norway is vast and expansive. It's rugged in a civilized sort of way.
 
Marcia Simon is a travel writer and owner of Friendly Group Travel. Connect through facebook.com/friendlygrouptravel, Instagram @friendlygrouptravel or [email protected].

PHOTO CREDIT: MARCIA SIMON  ©2024